My Brazilian Family

Here in Canela, Carolina’s family welcomed me with open arms.  I’m staying at the family’s hotel Vila Suzana in a very cute chalet that is three times the size of my former Greenwich Village studio.  Oh, it’s actually been cold enough to use the working fireplace!

Carolina manages the hotel and lives with her mother Marilla and father Tito ½ a block away in home in the Vila Suzana neighborhood.  Her brother Tiago and his girlfriend Ilana live a ten minute drive away.

The typical day here has been spent with me relaxing in the chalet in the morning, then meeting up with the family for lunch (generally the big meal of the day) in their home, followed by an afternoon of seeing some of the local attractions – Caracol Falls,  Ferradura (Horesehoe Canyon), shopping in the neighboring town of Gremaldo – then dinner at home with her family or out with friends.

The highlight of the trip for me has really been the time with Carolina and her family.  Although her parents do not speak English, there are times when we understand each other perfectly – prime example when I got my first lesson in how to make a proper caperinia from Tito and was put to work  in the kitchen cutting limes and peeling kiwis while Carolina, Tiago and Ilana laughed from the next room.  And her brother Tiago, who recently moved back to Canela after a year in New Zealand, has insisted on showing me all sorts of favorite spots in the town.  They are all such warm, inviting, and fun people who I am going to miss tremendously when I leave tomorrow.

Scenic Drive Photos

Photos from the drive to Canela, Rio Grande du Sol, Brazil

Banana Stand

On the beautiful, scenic drive from Florianapolis to Canela (six plus hours, partially do to construction of expanding the highway), we stopped along the way to pick up bananas.  Carolina and Martina had a ten minute conversation about the bananas with the woman running the stand. 

Now, I might not speak Portuguese, but I’m fairly good at reading context clues and guessing what is going on… but for the past few days, when I watched Carolina and Matina interact with shopkeepers, waitresses, pretty much anyone, I was completely lost in the back and forth … I chalked it up to being a Brazilian thing, thinking they all asked incessant questions about the mundane. 

Finally though, after ten minutes of watching them examine different bunches of bananas, I just had to know… I asked Tiane, who was hiding in the car, what they could possibly be talking about.  Laughing, she rolled her eyes and said she had no idea ~ they were just silly girls with boring questions.  Ah, the universal power of chat!

Negotiations at the Banana Stand Begin

Bacon Chips are funny

Sampling the goods

Finally, success!

Obviously there was PLENTY of room for banana and luggage for four girls

Let’s Have a Chimarrão

Carolina and the chimarrão

Gaucho* carry on an old tradition of sharing chimarrão, a tea made from yerba-mate drunk from a hollowed gourd-like bowl through a metal straw, with friends.  Here in southern Brazil, this is done with hot water, so people carry a thermos with them along with all the other equipment.  (I’m told that it is traditionally done with cold water in Argentina and Uruguay.) I think it tastes similar to green tea – but perhaps a bit more grassy and bitter.  They bring this stuff everywhere…. which I learned firsthand shortly.

Me and chimarrão

I drank my first chimarrao at the beach in Jurere with Carolina and Tiane.  As Florianopolis is in Santa Caterina state, people there do not drink the tea… it’s very regional.  As we headed to the beach, it struck me as odd to me to travel with all this equipment just for tea, but I came to realized it just as much a social activity as it is a drink.

Tiane and the chimarrão

Then, once I arrived in Canela, Carolina’s town, chimarroa was everywhere!  We went to the local waterfalls, and people were drinking it there.  Behind their desks, in toll booths, on park benches, in the car ~ chimarroa, chimarroa, chimarroa.  Here in Canela, I shared it with with Carolina and her family before dinner… with her brother Tiago and his girlfriend Ilana after a hike … their way of bringing me into their circle of friends and family.

Take note, chimarroa tea will not be coming back to New York… as perhaps you can tell from the picture, narcotics would be all over me.  Given that I’m already flying home from Colombia, we don’t need to add more fuel to that fire….

* like our cowboy, the term used to describe the people from Carolina’s state of Rio Grande do Sud 

Jurerê

More proof that Florianopolis is LA and vicinity – the posh neighborhood of Jurerê that could very well be straight out of Beverly Hills or Bel Air.  Home to the (very) rich and famous, we drove through the streets looking at the beachfront homes where the privileged go to play.  The first home pictured below belongs to Ronaldinho (world famous Brazilian footballer who plays for the national team as well as the premiere league for A.C. Milan).  It should go without saying that I officially want a house here.... 

Beaches of Florianopolis

Florianopolis has hundred's of beaches... we visited several during my short stay.  Unlike the small, hidden, tropical coves found in Itacare, Floripa's beaches are long, expansive, and easily reached (with many beachfront condos, hotels, and, in the case of the poshest neighborhoods, mansions).  Most impressive were the mystical blue mountains and islands that appeared in the distance from nearly every vantage point.... my pictures fail to do it justice.

View of Praia Canasvieiras from Martina's balcony

Praia Canasvieiras at high tide in the afternoon

Praia Brava

View from above Praia do Santinho

View from above Praia do Santinho

Praia do Santinho

Jurere at Sunset

Jurere at Sunset

Jurere at Sunset

Jurere at Sunset

Praia Joaquina

Surfers at Praia Joaquina

Botox

I arrived in Florianopolis by plane on Saturday evening.  Carolina, along with her friends Martina and Tiane, met me at the airport and whisked me across the island (much, much larger than I imagined) to Martina’s beachfront condo in Canasvieiras.  The girls were invited to a house party hosted by some Floripa guys they met the previous weekend at a concert closer to Canela, so that was the plan for the evening.

Carolina and Me

I had a good laugh getting ready with Carolina – she must have changed her outfit ten times before settling on what she was going to wear – and I immediately felt right at home with a fellow Virgo who shares both my love of make-up and tendency to travel with every medication under the sun.

Since I’d arrived under the cover of darkness, I’d yet to get a real sense for what the island looked like… I knew Martina's condo was on the beach, that there was a pretty intricate highway spanning the island, and that we were heading up to a party in the hills.  Our car followed a security guard on a moped up through the winding streets, past huge homes, all the way to an enormous bachelor pad with a four-car garage, elevator, tacky artwork, and crazy deck and pool that seem suspended over the bright lights of the distance city below … as we were greeted by a group of ten guys sporting striped shirts and aggressive V’s and introduced to the 70-year old plastic surgeon (an uncle) who owned the joint, it finally hit me, I’m totally in LA.  

The Most Horrifying Thing in Brazil (Yet)

Ketchup and mustard on pizza... this is something I refuse to try!!!!

Who Do You Know in Canela?

My mother Nancy lives in Naples, Florida.  Back in 2002, while she was living in nearby Marco Island, she volunteered as an English teacher at the local library.  As she lives in a retirement community (hahahaha, just kidding ,Nancy!)…. As she lives in an area where the population explodes during the winters, many local hotels and golf courses offer students from South American countries (and elsewhere) the opportunity to intern during their summers.

Carolina lives in Canela, Rio Grande de Sud, Brasil.  She and her family own and run a hotel in Canela.  Following her graduation from college in Brasil, she interned at the Marriot in Marco Island in 2002.  And to improve her already quite good English during her time in the States, she signed up for lessons at the local library.  Nancy was her teacher.

As my luck would have it, Nancy and Carolina become quite good friends.  So good, in fact, that when I fancied traveling to Brasil and Nancy mentioned this to Carolina, Carolina kindly extended the invitation for me to meet her in Florianopolis to stay at a friend’s condo and then to join her at her family’s hotel in Canela.  And thus my visit with Carolina begins...

Numb3rs

Now I don’t speak Portuguese, but I managed to figure out the untranslated Gol Airlines website well enough to select seats and print my boarding pass for my flight(s) to Florianopolis.  However, it seems I am not well versed in reading the western alphabet or numbers. 

When it came for me to switch flights in Sao Paulo, I easily found my way to the connecting flights area.  I read the departures board, found the flight to Floripa, and made my way to the gate with plenty of time to spare.   When they announced boarding, I didn’t rush with the crowd, rather took my time to finish a chapter in my book and avoid the long line.  As I reached the attendents, they seemed confused by my boarding pass….

‘Perhaps because I printed it myself?’,  I thought.  The first attendant began to explain, but my blank stare back told her I did not understand.  She signaled for another woman, who  signaled for a third attendant who was able to translate…

‘This ticket is not for this flight’, he said.

‘Yes’, I insisted, ‘it is.  I am going to Florianapolis via Illheus.  This is my boarding pass.’

‘Yes’, he replied, ‘but this ticket is for GOL.  This is for TAM.’

$@#$%! Completely wrong airline, and oh, *&#@#^%, my plane was down the stairs!  As I already entered the wrong boarding area, I had to go back through security (thankfully no line!), and upon glancing at the board, I saw my flight was on final call for boarding…. I raced down the stairs and was the very last passenger onto the bus….

Close call, but at least I’m not being indicted on murder charges like the billionaire whose family controls GOL - 

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/05/23/world/americas/23briefs-brfBRAZIL.html

Boca da Barra

Final day surfing we left Engenhoca and headed to Boca da Barra… much, much harder!  Its where the river meets the ocean, and you have to go pretty far out from the mainland to catch the waves.  We actually took a boat out and then paddled (forever and ever) to get out to catch the waves where they break. 

MOM STOP READING!!! 

So they let us out from the boat one by one, and I was at the end of the group… there were still a few instructors left in the boat, plus a student who was from a previous week… needless to say, by the time I got in the water the rest of the pack was way ahead of me…. So much so that despite my efforts to paddle out in the channel, I could not see anyone in front of me given the height of the waves.  And then the scary part happened – the waves started breaking before I could get fully out, and I was having to duck underwater… they taught us the turtle dive, which I used, but when you get hit one after another by pretty strong waves, well, eventually you are just trying to keep from being pummeled.  I spent about two or three scary minutes out there alone, not able to get past the waves, until one of the instructors came over…. Needless to say I was a little bit shaken up….but I got back out there, this time not going until I knew someone was behind or with me!!!  My surfing was not so good – it's much harder than where we were the first few days – but I got up there a handful of times, so go me on the last day!

 

Surf Camp, Days 3 & 4

Surfing and the surf conditions on Wednesday were soul crushing.  A lot of us were struggling, as the waves were choppy and the current quite strong.  I got banged around some more, adding additional insult to the bruises already prominent on my kneecaps and hips.  Ouch.  Still, I managed to get myself on the board and catch a few waves – and after watching the video that night, I had a better idea on where to focus my attention today.

And was fantastic.  We arrived at Engenhoca at low tide, so we were able to get out pretty far to catch the waves.  The more advanced surfers (all guys) were at a different beach, so today was just the four girls.  I made huge improvements over the last two days…. Not only could I get on the board, stay low, and keep my balance, but I actually started turns and walking on the board.  I caught a lot of good waves and rode them all the way in.  I’m loving being out there, even if we are still in the foam and not going to the outside.  Tomorrow is my last day of surfing, and if conditions are good, the instructors say we will go to the outside (meaning behind where the waves break).  This will probably mean a lot of paddling…

Back to my porch and hammock for my daily nap….

Wildlife Encounters

Three Little Micos, Sitting in a Tree

Mosquitoes – armed with my 40% DEET spray, I’ve been able to avoid them, although a few do manage to get in the room from time to time.  I’ve been sleeping under a mosquito net, and frankly, I kinda like being in it….

Geckos – Lots of little ones around the pousada and the beaches.  One made the fatal mistake of getting in my room Tuesday night.  After a lengthy chase and watching him nearly get in my bed, I came out the victor, thanks to some hairspray. 

The very threatening gecko and my headboard

Horses – saw a random horse in front of the pousada when we were coming back from dinner one evening.  Just hanging out.  No owner in sight.  The next morning, there were three horses just chilling and eating plants in the front.

A Horse's A$$

Monkeys – Micos (these adorable, tiny monkeys) came down from the tree above the breakfast area yesterday afternoon.  I was on my laptop when I noticed one looking at me, and suddenly about nine more appeared.  The pousada owner put out a banana for them.  They are soooooo cute.  The baby one was about the size of my fist.  And they can jump really far.  I wonder if I can take a monkey home with me?

SOOOOOO CUTE!

I Can Stand!

I surfed!!!! Or at least I stood and rode a wave in (several actually) on my first day!  I can’t believe I did it so soon– it took me a few tries, but the 1-2-3 method was actually pretty helpful.  Zuqueto had us stay ‘in the foam’, so we catch our waves after they break… but its still very fast and strong…. certainly not how I envisioned foam.  He had us practice just the paddling and pushing our upper body up for the first few waves, then we were supposed to do the real thing.  It took me a couple of tries, but I eventually got up (not so gracefully) and found enough balance to stay on the board for a bit…. The day ended with my most spectacular move – caught a good wave, rode it straight to the shore and straight into Julie’s board, flying up in the air and breaking one of the fins in the process. Of course, this is all captured on video, which we watching repeatedly in slow motion over and over. 

The beach we’ve been surfing on is Engenhoca.  Like all the beaches here, its surrounded by the rain forest and is quite secluded.  Sometimes a group of tourists might show up, but mostly its empty except for our surf group and the guys running the coconut and tapioca stand.  The beach sort of feels like an episode from Lost.   Typically you have to walk 40 minutes down a trail from the road to reach the it (while carrying your board), but it seems as though our instructors are in with the gate keeper so we fortunately have been able to drive to the beach!

 

Surf Camp, Day 1

Zuqueto took the beginners – myself and Julianna, a Brazilian girl staying in Itacare to help her cousin’s with their pousada for a few months.  Our lesson started at the school with an overview of boards and beach conditions.  After, we trekked to the waveless Praia de Concha (Concha Beach), Zuqueto taught us how to stand – on the land – using “1-2-3, ‘attach position’.”  Thankfully, there were no cameras to capture us on the first day!

The water was calm, so it was a good place to practice paddling, turning, and turtle dives (flipping the board over to pass a wave).  Nothing too hard, but then again no waves and no standing…. Tomorrow would be the real test!

Tonight I went back with Giyong to the surf house to watch a video from their day at the beach.  Given the rainy, gray weather, I was relieved we did not have to start at the beach until tomorrow (fingers crossed for sun, although the forecast says rain all week).  It was actually pretty helpful watching how the other surfers moved – you could see what worked and what did not.  I’m ready to give it a try.  

Sunday Night

Giyung is my cheerful neighbor – and it turns out she’s from Queens.  Figures I would come all the way to Brazil and meet a New Yorker!  We got to know one another over dinner on Sunday night… turns out she did surf camp in Costa Rica last year, so she would not be in my class on the first day, since I’m a real ‘beginner’.  Advantage to being a beginner, we got to sleep in a bit Monday and did not meet until 1 PM.  Everyone else was at the school by 9:30 and off to the beach in the rain!

Itacare Scenery

Flying Above the Canopy