Surfing and the surf conditions on Wednesday were soul crushing. A lot of us were struggling, as the waves were choppy and the current quite strong. I got banged around some more, adding additional insult to the bruises already prominent on my kneecaps and hips. Ouch. Still, I managed to get myself on the board and catch a few waves – and after watching the video that night, I had a better idea on where to focus my attention today.
And was fantastic. We arrived at Engenhoca at low tide, so we were able to get out pretty far to catch the waves. The more advanced surfers (all guys) were at a different beach, so today was just the four girls. I made huge improvements over the last two days…. Not only could I get on the board, stay low, and keep my balance, but I actually started turns and walking on the board. I caught a lot of good waves and rode them all the way in. I’m loving being out there, even if we are still in the foam and not going to the outside. Tomorrow is my last day of surfing, and if conditions are good, the instructors say we will go to the outside (meaning behind where the waves break). This will probably mean a lot of paddling…
Back to my porch and hammock for my daily nap….
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